The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers

El objetivo de esta estudio fue determinar los efectos de dos métodos de entrenamiento de fuerza diferentes, en un grupo de escaladores de élite, en los que se variaron en orden diferente, tanto la profundidad de apoyo como el peso añadido, durante un agarre de resistencia en un determinado ejercicio de escalada.

NOTICIAS







The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
22 de Octubre, 2014
Nine experienced rock climbers (mean climbing ability of 8a þ /b) were randomly assigned to Group A (n ¼ 5) and Group B(n ¼ 4). Both groups trained dead hanging using two different methods. One method consisted of using the minimum edgedepth (MED) they could hold the weight of their body; the other consisted of using a bigger edge (18mm) with maximumadded weight (MAW). Group A performedMEDfromWeeks 1 to 4, and then performedMAWthe following 4 weeks (termedas MED–MAW group); Group B performed MAW from Weeks 1 to 4 and then performed MED the following 4 weeks(termed asMAW–MEDgroup). Maximum grip strength and endurance tests were conducted initially (ST1; ET1), following4 weeks (ST2; ET2), 8 weeks (ST3; ET3), 2 weeks (ST4; ET4) and 4 weeks (ST5; ET5) completion of training to determinethe effects of detraining. The 9.6% improvement in grip strength ( p . 0.05) in MAW–MED group in ST2 and 6.9% in ST4was greater than in MED–MAW group. In terms of grip endurance, MAW–MED group in ET2 (16.69%) and in ET3(19.95%) improved more than MED–MAW group ( p . 0.05). Significant positive correlation was found between ST andET, and between changes in strength and changes in endurance at all stages, controlling for body weight in all cases. Thepresent data suggest that the most effective sequence of finger strength training methods is MAW–MED.Keywords: rock climbing, finger strength training, finger endurance training, elite climbers, strength on endurance.

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